Linda Murphy, Chronicle Wine Editor
The next-best thing to receiving a bottle of wine as a gift is getting a good wine or spirits book -- one that keeps on giving long after the bottle is empty.
This is a vintage year for wine and drinks books, with several new releases timed for the holidays. From primers to glossy coffee table books to what-to-buy handbooks, there's something for everyone this year.
One of the best wine reads today is Matt Kramer's column in Wine Spectator magazine. You may not agree with his opinions, yet they are intelligent, informed and thought-provoking. So is his book, "Making Sense of Wine," first published in 1989 and updated this year (Running Press, 240 pages, $19.95).
Kramer, who also writes for the Oregonian in Portland, has long held the opinion that the best wines have "somewhereness" -- that they taste of the place where the grapes are grown and the wines are made. This theme continues throughout the book as Kramer covers viticulture, production, marketing, serving, tasting and matching wine to food.
He also addresses how wines and the industry have changed since his 1989 edition. It's a period he calls "the most transforming 10-year span in the history of fine wine. Everything essential to fine wine -- winegrower ambition, a passionate, informed audience, and abundant money -- coalesced."
In "Making Sense of Wine," there are no lists of high-scoring wines, no florid tasting notes, no vintage charts advising when a wine is at its peak consumption. It's a book of essays that represent how Kramer makes sense of wine, and it's sure to help others on their path to wine enlightenment, too.
The easy-reading primer "Wine for Dummies" (John Wiley & Sons, 432 pages, $22) is highly recommended, particularly to those new to wine. Updated this year by Mary Ewing-Mulligan, a Master of Wine and co-owner of the International Wine Center in New York City, and her educator/author husband, Ed McCarthy, this is a friendly, unintimidating read with a sense of humor and a good deal of solid information.
Chapter titles capture the tone of the writing -- "These Taste Buds Are for You," "Pinot Envy and Other Secrets About Grape Varieties" and "Is It a Grape? Is It a Place?" -- yet there is proper depth and detail. Especially useful are the chapters on imported wines and those that offer advice on navigating restaurant wine lists and the aisles of wine shops.
A small-by-dimension book (6-by-8 inches) about a wine grape with a large following is Charles L. Sullivan's "Zinfandel: A History of a Grape and Its Wines" (University of California Press, 246 pages, $24.95). Each January (Jan. 24 in 2004) more than 10,000 people show up at Fort Mason in San Francisco to taste nothing but Zinfandel at the ZAP Festival, presented by Zinfandel Advocates & Producers.
Noted wine historian Sullivan traces the history of California's signature wine and reports on the fairly recent solving of the mystery of where Zinfandel originated. It's Croatia, yet the story is quite complicated and Sullivan fully plays it out until the end.
This is a must-read for Zin fanatics and those interested in the history of California winemaking.
If I had a dollar for every time a winemaker said that great wines are made in the vineyard, I wouldn't need a job. Yet the statement is true, and in honor of the vineyard, the University of California has published "Wine Grape Varieties in California" (188 pages, $30).
Meant to be a reference for grape growers and winemakers, it's also an outstanding introduction -- with detailed color photography -- for anyone wanting to learn about 36 grape varieties and how they're grown in California.
Take Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a full-page photo of two Cabernet grape clusters, two shots of the leaves (which make for easy identification in the vineyard) and text on the variety's origin, description of its clusters, berries, leaves and shoot tips, its soil adaptability, preferred rootstocks, clones, production volumes, harvest calendar, pruning regimen, canopy management and insect/disease problems particular to this variety.
A glossary defines such terms as "must" (unfermented grape juice, skins, seeds and stems) and "veraison" (the period when the ripening green grapes begin to soften and change color).
There are many technical aspects to "Wine Grape Varieties in California," yet it's written in plain language and presents a wealth of viticultural information that any grape geek can appreciate.
For lovers of Portugal's fortified wine, port, there's "Rich, Rare & Red: A Guide to Port" by Ben Howkins (Wine Appreciation Guild, 169 pages, $19.95). This updated third edition covers all the basics of port -- its history, how it's made, viticulture and how the port trade operates throughout the world.
Howkins profiles the major port houses, suggests which ones to visit, offers tips on how to taste these sweet, sumptuous wines and which foods to serve with them. He also includes a chapter on port-style wines made in other countries, including the United States, plus vintage charts that show port's best production years.
On the spirits shelves is Gary Regan's "The Joy of Mixology: The Consummate Guide to the Bartender's Craft" (Clarkson Potter, 386 pages, $30).
Regan, a Chronicle Wine section contributor, is the author of several spirits books; this one is written for those wanting to graduate from bartenders to what he calls "cocktailian" bartenders -- those familiar with the history of drinks and able to take standard recipes and put individual touches on them.
Although home mixologists and beginners will get a lot out of this book, including 350 recipes and advice on tools, glassware and techniques, its beauty is in the way Regan categorizes drinks not by the base liquor used but by grouping cocktails in families.
The margarita, for example, is a member of the New Orleans Sour family; the kamakaze is a margarita with vodka instead of tequila. The Cosmo has the same formula, with citrus-flavored vodka and a splash of cranberry juice. Regan contends that knowing the families makes recipe memorization much easier.
Whereas Regan's book has only a handful of illustrations and no color photography, "Rum" by Dave Broom (Wine Appreciation Guild, 176 pages, $45) is a gorgeous coffee table/reference book packed with 155 color photos, plenty of solid information on the origins of rum, how and where it's made and an A-to-Z directory of producers.
Jason Lowe's vivid photography captures both the process and the personality of those who produce rum. There are several rum cocktail recipes, most of them using metric measurements.
For stocking stuffers, look for these pocket wine guides, all of them highly recommended: "Daniel Johnnes's Top 200 Wines: An Expert's Guide to Maximum Enjoyment for Your Dollar" (Penguin Books, 400 pages, $17); Food & Wine magazine's "Wine Guide 2004" (Food & Wine Books, 320 pages, $11.95) by Jamal Rayis, and "Andrea Immer's 2004 Wine Buying Guide for Everyone" (Broadway, 272 pages, $12.95) and "Oz Clark's Pocket Wine Guide 2004" (Harcourt, 320 pages, $14).
E-mail Linda Murphy at lmurphy@sfchronicle.com